Some of the friendliest people in the world...the real but hidden Palestine

The pickle seller of Nablus

Having lived in a few countries, traveled to several, and visited dozens of cities and places, there are only a few that make my list of the seriously friendliest, warmest people in the world. Right now, Palestinians in the West Bank are equal to if not the most friendly people I have ever spent time with.

Not exactly the picture of Palestine that most people would have right?

I've been in Ramallah and Nablus for the last few days, both mostly commonly associated with being hotspots even within Palestine. Ramallah, the defacto political capital of the Palestinian territories, and perhaps best known for the siege of Yasser Arafat's compound in his last months. Nablus, the largest city in the West Bank, and the centre of the second intifada (struggle in Arabic, the second uprising) which was the scene of heated battles between Israeli and Palestinian fighters for years up until 2007.  

 Given this recent history and its location in the north of the West Bank, Nablus is often considered to be a place to be cautious of to say the least, and yet I haven't felt more welcomed anywhere for years (along with Ramallah and other West Bank visits in March). Traveling on my own, often sharing no language other than basic phrases, and yet welcomed everywhere...warmly and genuinely.   

As part of the Palestinian territories that doesn't get as many travelers as places like Bethlehem, people have given me hearty welcomes everywhere on the street, fruit vendors have given me free samples, people have given me lifts, made phone calls for me, and offered me chai, felafels and more.

Spontaneous invite to a dinner party in Ramallah to celebrate Muayad's Masters degree

Given the poor economic situation of a people virtually cut-off from towns nearby by the Israeli military checkpoints, it has been humbling and heartwarming to be treated as a special guest.

And often by people whose very names conjure up the wrong images in the West; Jihad fed me cucumbers and offered me coffee, Hamas cooked me falefels, and the other Jehad has hosted me in his lovely guesthouse, driven me to see the sights, organised and taken a group of us to the local ancient bath house, and generally shown me around his great city of Nablus.

Beautiful, generous, good-hearted people. Yes, this is what Palestine is really like.

 Eating icecream in the beautiful courtyard